Broadrick’s route was put up in 1899. We should have known better: such vintage climbs graded Hard Severe are always harder, and the first pitch of the direct is the same as its parent. (RW Broadrick was killed on a rope of four in 1903 on Scafell, there being no proper belays then) My guide of 1993 gives the first pitch no grade, so I led off, not really understanding where it went, and after some hesitations and messing about I found a good belay somewhere above. 4a probably. Ian then ignored the steep groove above, probably the direct, and wandered off to the right , out of sight. This turned out to be the original route. We think. And hard enough. It is likely that a nasty V groove with little handholds which followed was the third guidebook pitch, now updated to 4c, and added today to the second, and the last pitch could be anywhere, but I didn’t lead it, mumblings of benighting were heard, but instead took the rope for a 30m scramble to the top. Still, this was after work, an improvement on the last three years, and a rapid descent down the grassy area below the tarn, now drier than ever known, got us the last pint in the Sun, after much begging, bowing and scraping. I paid, again, possibly as punishment, the route being my idea.
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